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this PageWell, I'm not sure if it was due to the fact that only two weeks prior to the date set for my meet, a lot of Cliffhangers, including myself, had had a pretty cold and wet Bank Holiday weekend on Skye and weren't enamoured by a repeat performance in Scotland or whether it was punishment for me not coming down South more often, but only Sarah Blyth wanted to come on the meet that was scheduled for The Cobbler. Sadly, this was also just after I had broken my finger, so climbing was out of the question for me and with no-one else on the meet, unfortunately also for Sarah. So, at the last minute, the meet was cancelled due to lack of interest.
However, in some ways it was a bitter/sweet experience, as it gave me the opportunity to spend a wonderful weekend in Knoydart.
John and I drove up to Scotland after work on Friday night. After snaking along a single track road, by the loch side for 25 miles, to Kinlochhourne we were faced by swarms of the mightiest midges I'd ever seen on our arrival at the roadhead. We arrived at midnight, just after the longest day and decided to do the threee hour walk in to the bothy that night, spend two hard days walking over the weekend and get back on Sunday night, ready for work on Monday. Little did we know that it was to be the start of the heatwave and we'd be wearing thermals by Sunday, just to keep our sunburnt bits out of the sunshine!
The walk in was fantastic. There is a track along the loch side, which goes through rhododendron forests, snaking up rocky promontories and clearly leading the way to the bothy and wild camp site at the end. The moon was full, there was enough daylight not to need a head torch at all, we saw a fish leaping out of the loch as we walked past, loads of frogs basking on the cool track in the night heat, it was fantastically quiet and still, yet you were aware of wildlife all around you.
We arrived at the bothy/camp site at around 3am and were immediately attacked by midges again when we tried to put up the tent. Nevertheless, we persevered and got to bed around 3.30am. By 8.30am, the sun was frying us in our tent, we made a hasty retreat into the bothy to eat breakfast and escape the midges and were on our way up Luinne Bheinn by 10am in bright sunshine, under a brilliant blue sky.
Four hours walking, along distinct paths to begin with, past streams and rocky knolls, then off the marked paths, taking bee lines across the hillside, up some scrambly rocks, until eventually we reached the summit of Luinne Bheinn. Our next objective was the summit of Meall Bhuidhe, a few miles away but involving much descent and ascent. The views across to Meall Bhuidhe, the tiny lochans glistening in the sunshine, Ladhar Bheinn, Beinn Sgreathall and the Skye ridge in the distance and Inverie nestling by Loch Nevis were enticingly clear.
Much ascent and descent, seeking out every bit of shade we could, in the absolutely scorching sunshine. Eventually, the summit was reached, more fantastic views, the likes of which you never expect to see in Scotland (you know they are there, but hidden in mist or rain) then down to a fantastic cold lochan for a splash, past a tiny dappled fawn, frozen still with fear some 50 yards away, past acres of wild orchids and finally up to the bealach before our descent to Glen Barrisdale and the bothy for 8pm.
No midges that night as there was a wind. Sadly, I discovered huge blisters on the soles of both feet and between my toes (thank goodness for Compeed!) but they weren't to cramp our style for next day, although they may have slowed me down a bit!
That night, we thought the weather had changed, we were hearing raindrops falling on the tent all night, but by 5am, we realised it wasn't rain but ferocious midges trying (and succeeding) to get in through the teeth of the zip on the tent! Nevertheless, it helped us get off to an early start and by 8am we were walking. We did a circuit of Ladhar Bheinn in unbearable heat, wearing thermals to protect ourselves from the rays (of course, the suntan stuff was on the table at home). It was still fantastic just to be here, surrounded by the impressive ranges with the most amazing views I remember seeing in Scotland. The whole walk took 9 hours, rough walking and blisters all the way, with a delightful waterfall shower and swim on the way down. Then, back to the bothy to eat the remains of last night’s tea, pack up and do the three hour walk out, this time in daylight.
Some helpful soul advised us that there was 1000 feet of ascent and descent on the way out. We hadn't realised this on our way in but it felt like it on the way out. Nevertheless, the views were wonderful and a special delight was fresh scones, tea and a clean washroom at the farm where you pay to park. (We hadn't felt like waking them up at midnight on our arrival).
We were a bit anxious on the way back, as we were nearly out of petrol, but managed to make it to Fort William for chips and a refill. A truly wonderful weekend, which I can recommend to everyone. We got back to Carlisle around 2.30am and spent the next week intending to go up a hill each night after work, the spirit was very willing but the flesh pretty weak! But we were back in the hills next weekend.
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